Stocking



Nov. 16, 1937. H'. sH ELY. 2,099,539

STOCKING Filed Nov. 7, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 I i Ewen/i017 @Ma m $072Nov. 16, 1937. H, SHNELY 2,099,539

STOCKING Filed Nov. 7, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Nov. 16, 1937'UNITED STATES;

PATENT omce s'rocnma Holly ll; Shively, Chicago, ml; n.ApplicationNovember v, 1935, Serial No. 48ers Y 1a Claims.

This invention relates to hosiery and more particularly to an improvedconstruction and design of the upper portion of the stocking commonlycalled the welt. As is well known, the body of a woman is small I at thewaist and broad at the hips, as a result of which the increase in sizeof the leg of the k average woman from a point just above the knee up tothe thigh is very pronounced. Stockings 0 are supported by claspspendant from a body ar-- ment such as a corset, girdle orfoundationgarment. As a result of the movements of the body, stockingsare subjected to such extreme strain at points where clasps are attachedthat it has been necessary to make the top portion or section of thestocking, known as the welt, of much heavier fabric. To stand the strainof the supporter clasps, the welt is not only made of much ,1

heavier fabric but it is also doubled over, thus jg making it of doublethickness. The heavier the fabric the less elasticity it will have.

In women's stockings the accepted standard length in the industryisthirty inches and over,

3'5 and men's socks.

Among theobjects of my invention is to so form the upper portion, orwelt,'of a stocking that the elasticity thereof is greatest at the top.

A further object is to provide a stocking hav- 40 ing a welt in whichthe elasticity progressively decreases from a maximum at the top to amini-- mum at the bottom to adapt the elasticity to the naturalvariation; in thickness of the large part of the leg of the wearer.

5 Another object is to provide a stocking having a welt in which' ifdesired and by reversing the arrangement of the heavier and lighterparts, the elasticity can be made to progressively increase from aminimum at the top to a maximum 50 at the bottom to adapt the same tobelow-knee length of ladies stockings, and childrens and men's socks,for use without garters.

A still further object is to so form the welt of a stocking that thedesired distribution of elasticity can be eflected during manlifg llll'gby the alternate arrangement and location of heavier and lighterportions of the fabric.

Another object is the provision of a guide mark at the middle front ofthe top of the welt to serve as an index to insure the stocking, whenput on, being straight on the leg of the wearer.

A further object is to provide for the correct positioning of theheavier portions of the welt fabric to act as a garter block of greaterstrength and thickness to -hold the supporter clasps with- 9 out tearingor breaking the threads of the welt.

A still further object is to increase the possibility for use ofdecorative colors, or knitting designs, to produce greater appeal to theeye.

Another object is the provision of a stocking, sock or the like havinggreater comfort for the ,wearer, selling appeal in the trade, and tomore correctly, snugly and pleasingly fit the leg of the wearer withoutthe presence of wrinkles.

A further object is the provision of a stocking having a welt portion soformed that ample elasticity is provided circumferentially, resulting inthe shock of garter strain being distributed and absorbed by elasticityin the entire length of the stocking,,thus reducing to a minimum thedanger of runs.

A still further object is the provision of a stocking having theimprovements of .the present invention and adapted to manufacture on thepresent standard types of stocking-making machines with the minimum ofchange therein.-

Other objects, advantages and-capabilities will later more fully appear.

My invention further resides in the combiner tion, construction andarrangement of parts illustrated in the accompanying drawings, and whileI have shown therein preferred embodiments I wish it understood that thesame is susceptible of modification and change without departing fromthe spirit of my invention. 40

In the drawings:- a i Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a lady's stockingembodying my invention, and shown 'as applied to the leg of the wearer.

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary development of the upper portion of a stockingmade in accordance with my invention, and showing the same laid out flatprior to formation of the rear seam, and for the sake of convenienceshowing the welt opened up flatw ise of single thickness prior to beingdoubled upon itself to form a double thickness.

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary development of the upper portion of my improvedstocking prior to iq ation of the rear seam and showing the welt of Fig.2 after it has been folded into double thickness.

Fig. 4: is a view similar to Fig. 2, but showing a reversal of thearrangement of the heavy and light portions of the. welt to position thewide part of the heavy portion at the top of the welt after beingdoubled over, and showing a greater.

number of alternate light and heavy portions in the welt;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 but showing the welt after it hasbeen folded into double thickness and with the position of the trianglesreversed.

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary view of openwork knitting of lace or othereffect that may constitute the lighter fabric of the welt.

Fig. '7 is a fragmentary view showing the threads of the heavier andlighter portions of the welt enlarged and showing only portions of thecontiguous triangles. Referring in detail to the drawings, Fig. 1 showsin full length a stocking, preferably made of silk, applied to the legof the wearer and comprising a leg portion I, a foot portion 2, and awelt portion 3. and the leg portion I is the usual after welt or shadowwelt 4, which serves to minimize the visual effect of the quicktransition from the doubled over welt 3 tothe lighter weight leg portionI. The welt portion 3 is doubled in thickness and comprises alternatelyarrangedtriangles, one set or series 5 of these triangles (see Fig. 1)being formed of light weight fabric, and the alternate set or series 6being formed of heavier weight fabric. These triangles of alternatelydifferent weight fabric are shown more in detail in Fig. 2, in which thematerial of the welt portion, for the sake of clearness, is shown openedup flat (in development) instead of in double thickness as in Figs. 1and 3.

It is to be understood that in knitting my im proved stocking theknitting is started at the top (Fig. 2) and the knitting progressed,according to the pattern or arrangement desired, down to the bottomline] of the'welt 3, when the material forming the welt is doubled uponitself along its central line 8--8 to bring the top edge 3 intoalignment with the bottom line I, and thethreads pickedup andincorporated with the main threads advancing into the shadow welt of thestocking. This doubling over of the portion of the welt shown in Fig. 2above the central line 8-8, causes the triangles 5 of lighter materialin the upper half of the welt to fall into reglstry'with the triangles 5of lighter material in the lower half of the welt. In a similar mannerthis doubling over process causes the triangles B of heavier material inthe upper half of the welt to fall into registry-with the tri angles 6of heavier material'in the lower half of the welt. 'Fig. 3 shows thewelt 3 after this doubling over step has been completed, resulting inthe lighter weight triangles 5 and the heavier weighttriangles 8, shownin Fig. 3, being of double thickness. As will be understood, after theknitting of .the stocking has been completed the longitudinal side edgeswill be brought together and the rear seam formed in the usual manner.

In the welt construction shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the triangles 5 oflighter fabric are arranged so that after the upper half of the welt isdoubled over upon the lower half of the welt, the base of the triangles5 will be at the top edge of the welt 3. A glance at Fig. 3 will showthat with this arrangement the horizontal line W Between the weltportion 3' aoea'sse the top edge of the welt will fall within apractically continuous region of the lighter fabric. To put it anotherway, the bases of the triangles5 of lighter fabric substantially toucheach other at the top of the doubled over welt shown in Fig. 3; so thatthis'lighter fabric at the top of the finished stocking will extendsubstantially continuously entirely around the top of the stocking.Thematerial of triangles 5 being of lighter fabric than the material oftriangles 6, will consequently have greater elasticity, thus resultingin maximum elasticity-at the top of the stocking which, due to thearrangement of the triangles, will proportionately decrease toward thebottom or apex of the triangles 5. In'other words, the elasticity in thewelt 3 shown in Fig.

3 will be such as to adapt itself to the decrease -in thickness of thisportion of the leg of the wearer, which thickness, as pointed outearlier herein, increases rapidly from the knee to the thigh.

This construction of welt thus makes possible the manufacture of astocking affording maximum comfort to the wearer without being too tightat the top. The apices of the triangles 6 of heavier fabric being at thetop do not interfere with this maximum elasticity at the top, but due tothe triangles 6 increasing in horizontal width toward their bases thetriangles 6 thus proportionately diminish this elasticity toward thebottom of the welt, consequently providing less elasticityproportionately as the thickness of the leg of the wearer decreases. Theapex of that triangle at the front of the welt (whether of light fabricor heavy fabric, depending on whether applied to full length stockings,or below-knee length stockings-or socks) falling at the middle of thefront of the welt at the top, forms an index or guide mark to enable thewearer to quickly and easily place the stocking or sock straight uponthe leg and free from a twisted condition.

When the upper half of the welt 3 is doubled over upon the lower half,this results in a picot edge III at the top of the stocking as shown inFig. 3, this being due to the picot loops I l formed during the knittingof the welt along the central line 8-8. This adds to the ornamentalappearance of the stocking.

The relative weight of the fabric in the triangles 5 and 6 may be chosento give the desired eflect in elasticity as well as ornamentation,including variations in color, design or the like. For. example, by theuse of indentine dye the fabric of the different triangles can be madeof different colors, various designs may be knitted in the varioustriangles or, if desired, the triangles of lighter weight may bev givena lace or net effect, thus adding to the elasticity as well as to theornamentation. In other words, this general arrangement of triangles offabric of different weights lends itself with great facility to widepossibilities in ornamental designs as well as control of elasticity inthe welt.

Any number of triangles within reasonable limits oi. proportion may beused throughout the circumference of the welt. In the form shown inFigs, 1, 2 and 3 there are illustrated six of these triangles throughoutthe circumference of the welt, this being the form in which the maximumelasticity is at the top, in full length stockings.

In the case of. below-knee length stockings and childrens and menssocks, where the change in thickness of the leg of the wearer is not sopronounced and where the necessity for comfort is aoeasso not quite soacute, the welt may bemade with the relative position of the trianglesof heavier and lighter material reversed. This is shown in Fig. 4 inwhich the heavier triangles 6 are ar- 5 Lranged so that when the upperhalf of the welt is. doubled over upon the lower half of the welt thebase or greatest width of these triangles of heavier fabric will be atthe top instead of as in Fig. 2 having the greatest width at the top ofthe lighter fabrics. This in the form shown in Fig,' 4 results in thetop edge of the finished ,stocking being of minimum elasticity, which inthe case of below-knee length stockings, and childrens and mens socks,gives a more substantial gripping action upon-the leg of thewearer andeliminates the nece ssityof incorporating in the fabric, rubber or otherelastic material that would in time rot or otherwise deteriorate. Thiswill eliminate in mens socks'the necessity of supporters. p

In Fig. 4 the triangles of lighter fabric are indicated at 5', and theyarezcorrespondingly reversed in position over those shown in Fig. 2. Inother words, these triangles 5' of lighter fabric after the upper halfof the welt is doubled over the lower half of the welt, have their bases01' widest portion at the bottom of the welt instead of at the top as,in Fig. 2. From "this it'will be readily understood that the relativearrangement of the heavier fabric triangles 6, and the lighterfabric'triangles 5' in Fig. 4, willgive .a maximum gripping action atthe top of the stocking or sock, this gripping action proportionatelydecreasing in a downward direction. It'should be kept in mind that oneof the differences in the requirements of a a full-length stockinghaving .a welt such as shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3 over the requirementsof. the below-knee length stocking or socks illustrated in Fig. 4 isthat in the fulllength stocking the major requirement is comfort V at alarger and' more sensitive part of the leg" of the wearer, which parthas a more rapid change 'in thickness longitudinally of the leg,thefull-length stocking being held up by supporter clasps. while in thebelow -knee length stockings and socks, the top of which encircle theleg of the wearer at a portion'where supporter clasps are not available,the major requirement is a suf-- ficient. tightness or gripping actionaround the" leg of the wearer to take the place of a garterto holdtheshort stockings or soc'ks up. As is apparent, this placing of themaximum width of the heavier fabric ftriangles at the top of. the

- stocking in Fig. 4 produces this-gripping garter socks having a weltsuch as is shown in Fig. 4 and 1 eifect. In the below-knee lengthstockings and described above, a greater number of triangles will'preferablybe used throughout the circumference of the weltin order toincrease the gripping or garter action. I

In Figs. 4 and 5 a total of twelve triangles of both light and heavyfabric are shown in each of the, two thicknesses of the double thicknessthroughout the circumference of the stocking, but it is understood thatany other properly proportioned number may be used. In the belowkneelength stockings and socks the standard vertical width of the welt afterbeing doubled over, is from one and one-half to two inches, while in thefull length stockings it is three and one-half inches for a doubledwelt. I

In the various forms of stocking shown in the drawings, the after weltor shadow welt is indicated at 4 and, as is well known, the purpose ofthis after or shadow welt is to minimize the visualefiect of the quicktransition from the doubled over, weltto the lighter-weight stockingleg.

As will be understood, Fig. 4 shows the welt before being doubled over.Fig. 5 shows the welt after it has been doubled over into doublethickness and with the position of the triangles re- In Fig. dis afragmentary suggestion of an openwork lace or net effect that may, ifdesired,

beused in the triangles 5 and 5' of lighter weight material. -Qtherdesigns may be used in such triangles in accordance with the wishes ofthe .designer. A InFig. 7 is shown in fragmentary enlargement one formof adjacent portions of the material forming the heavier weighttriangles and the lighter Weight triangles,'this view showing theheavier threads of the-heavier weight triangles and the lighter threadsof the lighter weight triangles.

My invention is also applicable to a single thickness welt iri which therelative arrangement of the. portions of'lighter weight fabric and theportions of heavier weight fabric may be either of-the type shown inFig. 3 or of the type shown in Fig. 5, and any si ze and number oftriangles used as desired; it being understood that in thecase of fulllength stockings with either a single or double thickness welt the baseor great-- est width of the triangles of lighter weight fabric will beat' the top of the welt as inFigs.-3 and 5,

while in below-knee length stockings, and socks,

the? base or greatest width of the triangles of v heavier weight fabricwill be at the top of the welt, asin 'Fig. 4 after the welt has beendoubled over. While I have illustrated the lighter weight fabricportions. of the welt, and the heavier weight fabric portions of thewelt as each being of triangular shape, it is to be understood that thestrict configuration of a triangle might be departed from withoutdeparting from the spirit, 'of my invention-which includes in fulllength stockings the provision of maximum elasticity at the top of thewelt with the gradual diminishing oisuch elasticity downwardly towardthe bottom of the welt, and in the case of below-knee length stockingsand children's and mens socks, the

provision of minimum elasticity at the top of the welt with the gradualincreasing of such elasticity downwardly toward the bottom of the welt,which welt in both cases may be. of either-double or single thickness,as desired.

Having now described my invention I claim:

lighter weight fabric, the base of the triangle being at the top ofthewelt and the apex there of pointing downwardly, there also beingknitted in said welt a triangular"portion of heavier weight fabric, thebase of the triangle of the 1 heavier weight triangular portion beingpositioned downwardly and its apex at the top of the welt, whereby toprovide in said welt an elasticity that is maximum at the top of thewelt and progressively decreases downwardly to comfortably acco'minodatethe vertical change in thiclmess of the wearers leg above the knee.

3. In astocking, a welt havingone or more triangles of lighter weightfabric with the base at the top of the welt and the apex' pointingdownwardly, and onelor more triangles of heavier weight fabric with theapex pointing upwardly,

whereby the lighter weight triangles will produce an elasticity greatestatthe top of thewelt and progressively diminishing downwardly, while theheavier weight triangles will provide stronger supporter-clasp receivingareas.

- the triangles of one series being reversely posi-' toned with relationto the triangles of the other series and of lighter weight fabric,the-lighter weight triangles having their bases at the top of the weltand their apices at the' bottom of the welt, the heavier weighttriangles having their apices at the top of the welt and theirbases atthe bottom of the welt.

6. In a'stocking, a legportion having at its upper end a welt having twoseries of triangles, the triangles of one series being reverselypositioned with relation to the triangles of the other series-and oflighter weight fabric, the lighter weight triangles having their basesat the top of the welt and their apices at the bottom of thewelt, theheavier weight triangles having their apices at the top of the welt andtheir bases at the bottom of the welt, the light weight triangles beingalternately positioned with relation to the heavier weight triangles.

'7. In a stocking, a'leg,portion having at. its upper end a welt havingtwo series of triangles, the triangles of one series being reverselypositioned with relation to the triangles of the other series and oflighter weight fabric, the lighter weight triangles having their. basesat the top of the welt and their apices at the bottom of the welt, theheavier weight triangles having their apices at the top of the welt andtheir bases at the bottom of the welt, the light weight triangles beingalternately positioned with relation to the heavier weight triangles,and contiguous therewith, to provide an elasticity in the welt that ismaximum at the top 'of the welt and progressively decreases downwardlyto the bottom of the welt, whereby to comfortably accommodate theenlarging thicknessof the wearers leg above the knee. v

8. In a stocking a' welt havinga plurality of portions of lighter weightfabric and a'plurality of portions of heavier weight fabric, each of thelighter weight portions being of greatest circumferential dimension atthe, top,' of the welt and decreasing in said dimension downwardlythroughout the vertical extent of the welt, and

each of said portions of heavier weight fabric being positionedreversely to thelighter weight portions, whereby to cause the welt toprogressively increase in circumferential elasticity from the bottom tothe top, to give greatest elasticity at the larger portion of the legcontacted by the stocking, the elasticity progressively decreasingdownwardly in proportion to the, decreasing thickness of the wearers legabove the knee.

9. In a stocking, a welt having a plurality of I lighter weight portionsand a plurality of heavier weight portions, each of said light weightportions extending throughout the vertical extent of the one end to theother in one direction, and each of the heavier weight portionsextending throughout the vertical extent of the welt and increasing incircumferential width from one end to the r other in the oppositedirection, whereby to produce a progressive change in the degree ofcircumferential elasticity.

, HOLLY I. \SHIVELY.

,. welt and increasing in circumferential width from l

